French Polynesia, Part II: Supporting Research in the Tuamotus

French Polynesia, Part II: Supporting Research in the Tuamotus

by | Jan 30, 2022 | French Polynesia, Scientific Trips

We had been navigating the French Polynesian waters for 6 weeks before our new Operation Swimway began in the Tuamotus Archipelago. After visiting some of the remote Marquesas islands, cruising the pristine waters of the Western Society Islands, and experiencing the culture in Tahiti and Moorea, we were set to start the next science expedition on board Seahawk.

For this trip, we were joined by a team of renowned marine researchers from top universities in the U.S and France; Eric Clua, Ph.D., shark specialist and professor at Centre de Recherches Insulaires et Observatoire de l’Environnement (CRIOBE); Mark Royer, Ph.D., Shark expert from the University of Hawaii; and Clémentine Séguigne, shark ecologist and Ph.D. student at CRIOBE. Planning and logistics for this mission were also arranged with YachtAid Global and Carl Meyer, Ph.D., professor, and researcher at the University of Hawaii.

Rodolphe Holler, our local guide and videographer throughout our time in French Polynesia, and his assistant Tearenui Poole joined the trip with their boat ‘Coconut’. Rodolphe’s expertise and understanding of the area were key for a successful trip and a safe navigation through the different Atolls.

This time, the mission’s goal was to study tiger shark populations in some of the Atolls of the Tuamotus. Specifically, their migration patterns and habitat use across the archipelago.

The research focused on tiger sharks as there’s still a lot to learn from them within their Polynesian habitats. Existing studies in the country have shown a population predominantly female from sightings around shark ecotourism sites, with males being a minority and seen more often in pelagic environments. Although photo-id studies have shed light on females’ reproductive biology, more studies needed to be conducted to deepen the knowledge of sharks’ habitat use and behavior in the Polynesian waters.

The objective of the project conducted in the Tuamotus, therefore, was the tagging of several individuals, the installation of new acoustic receivers, and the recuperation of old ones to recover previous data.

Our expedition began in the atoll of Makemo, located in Central Tuamotus. From there, we started a 10-day trip that was action-packed, with an itinerary that incorporated some of the archipelago’s most remote corners, where we found ourselves looking for tiger sharks, diving the extreme passes of the atolls, and even swimming alongside the rare Chilean Devil Rays (Mobulas Tarapacanas) in Raroia, as Eric collected DNA from them.

Another interesting experience was joining the scientists in their “recovery dives”, where we would drop at a location where previous receivers had been placed, to grab them and place new ones. These dives were challenging at times, due to the receivers being broken off and swept away by the strong currents of the passes. Due to the COVID lockdowns, some of the receivers had been in place for 2 years or more. Finding them was always a reason for an underwater celebration.

Fortunately, the data collected from these older receivers was worth the long search, as it had very valuable information on some of the sharks’ long migrations across French Polynesia. To be precise, a particular individual often sighted in Tahiti was recorded to have traveled several times to Hao (900km away!), proving the shark’s long-distance journeys.

The trip also included a visit to a local school in Hao, where Eric gave a presentation to students, aged 10 to 16, and taught them about sharks and their importance within the ecosystems they inhabit. The goal of the presentation was to educate the young generations about sustainable fishing practices, and why it is important to keep sharks alive in order to keep reefs and fish populations healthy. It was inspiring to see the great interest the children showed, and how knowledgeable some of them were, as they come from families that heavily depend on fishing as a source of income.

As for the shark tagging, the science team managed to tag a total of 4 tiger sharks (3 of them in one day!); A remarkable accomplishment, considering that a total of 10 sharks had been tagged in 7 years. It was also an unforgettable experience for guests and crew on board, as most were able to be present during the tagging.

However, this trip also made us face a hard reality. During one of our dives, in Raroia, we came across a dead black tip reef shark that showed signs of stabbing. A gruesome sight that most likely indicated that it had been killed for being a nuisance to fishermen. There is still work to be done in educating the population about shark conservation. Unfortunately, that isn’t just a local concern, but an international one.

On a positive note, thanks to the researchers’ accomplishments during the trip, a broader picture of these sharks’ spatial movements across the different atolls and further islands such as Tahiti is now underway. Hopefully, the new data will provide meaningful insight to protect key areas that serve as mating and pupping grounds for these animals, as well as create protected corridors for them to travel across islands safely.

French Polynesia, Part I: The Society, Tuamotus and Marquesas Islands

French Polynesia, Part I: The Society, Tuamotus and Marquesas Islands

by | Jan 7, 2022 | French Polynesia, Fun Trips

The shape of Tahiti appeared as the sun was rising on January 7th, indicating that we had reached land after a 2-week crossing that started in Baja California. The lush green and dramatic mountains were the first things we noticed; a view we would get used to as we made Marina Taina our new base for the next 3 months.

The marina, in the south of Papeete, was very different from any other we had encountered before; crystal clear waters, with coral growing on the sides of the dock. Noticeably, we were the biggest boat there, with smaller catamarans and sailboats being the majority around. With views to the island of Moorea and groups of locals coming past as they rowed through the channel, while young teenagers with their foil boards caught the wakes of small boats cruising through, Marina Taina was different.

We spent the first few weeks under the heavy rains of Tahiti’s wet season, getting ready for our first exploration of French Polynesia. At the beginning of February, we set sail for Nuku Hiva, the biggest island of the Marquesas group. After encountering some rough seas beating against the trade winds, we arrived three days later, and the dry landscape that welcomed us made a contrast with the green beauty of the island we had left behind, showing us just how different every corner of French Polynesia can be.

On our days in Nuku Hiva, we had the chance to briefly explore the island, learn about its history, and try some of the local gastronomy. However brief, our time in the Marquesas gave us an insight into this part of French Polynesia, still relatively untouched and geographically different from any other place we visited during the rest of our trip.

It was here where we were joined by Rodolphe Holler. Rodolphe, co-founder of Tahiti Private Expeditions, is a local guide, dive instructor, professional videographer, and probably one of the few people that knows French Polynesian waters like the palm of his hand. He stayed with us during most of our time in the country, and thanks to him we had a trip full of action, epic dives, and visits to hidden gems only available to a few.

A day and a half after departing from the Marquesas, we arrived in Fakarava, the 2nd biggest Atoll in the Tuamotus, and a popular stop for keen divers that visit the country.

Fakarava has two passes entering the 1,112² km lagoon. The South Pass has a dive site that is known for what some call the “wall of sharks”, and we can say that it lives up to its name. Hundreds of grey reef sharks gathering together along the Atoll’s pass are a common sight, while other big pelagic fish can be seen around the area.

The dives here, as in most of the Tuamotus passes, are drift dives where you normally start outside of the lagoon and drift inside with the incoming tide.  With changing currents, these dives require good planning and a dive guide that knows the area, but they are incredibly fun and give a very good opportunity of encountering many species of sharks, rays, and other big fish.

But it’s not only the submarine life that describes Fakarava. During our days there, we walked through pink sand beaches and collected coconuts. We visited pearl farms and cycled around the motus (islets), enjoying the views of crystal clear waters and palm trees.

After the first couple of weeks cruising the central and eastern side of the country, we continued our journey to the Society Islands, known for the postcard beaches and the overwater bungalows that evoke paradise.

Bora Bora was our first stop on this side of the archipelago. We spent a couple of days there and got to experience several marine encounters inside the vast lagoon. Rodolphe, always with a plan in mind, took us on a journey to find manta rays and schools of eagle rays as they were swimming through.

After Bora Bora came Raiatea, Taha’a and Huahine, where we explored the land, from vanilla farms to small towns where we cruised through and bought fresh fruit from the local markets.

But as our time to start our science trip was getting closer, we went back to Tahiti and Moorea to spend a few days before we got started with the next expedition. While we got provisions and did crew changeovers, we made the most of our time on the islands. Moorea and Tahiti both have great hiking, as the islands are a paradise filled with waterfalls, dramatic peaks, and pathways filled with dense vegetation. Extraordinary was one of the hikes in Tahiti, near the city of Papeete, where, after two hours hiking up, we swam at the top of a waterfall while enjoying the views that come with being at the summit of a mountain.

In Moorea, Seahawk spent 6 days anchored off Cook’s Bay, an anchorage with stunning views to Mount Mouaputa and Tohivea. Those days were all about hiking and getting to know the land, but there was also time spent in the water, snorkeling with black tip sharks and curious stingrays that are used to being fed by tourists; they didn’t give it a second thought before swimming straight to us to see if we carried any food.

Our days in Tahiti and Moorea came to an end as we left en route for Tuamotus once again, this time on our way to start the new science trip “Operation Swimway, French Polynesia”, that we had arranged with our partners in YachtAid Global, Rodolphe, and the team of scientist joining us from University of Hawaii and Centre de Recherches Insulaires et Observatoire de l’Environnement (CRIOBE).

On our way to start the trip at the end of March, we stopped in Rangiroa, the Tuamotus biggest and most popular Atoll. It is a ‘must do’ stop in the archipelago, with world-class diving and hundreds of islets and sandbars to explore 

Our first visit to Rangiroa was mostly focused on diving. We had heard rumors of friendly dolphins approaching divers in this particular place, and so we went on a mission to find them. The rumors turned out to be true, and during the time we were there, we were approached daily by dolphins on our morning dives. Another unusual encounter that those on board Seahawk can add to their library of experiences.  

With the science trip starting soon in Makemo, we picked up anchor after a few days in Rangiroa and set sail once again, on route to start the new adventure. “Operation Swimway” was waiting on the other side.

If you want to know more, take a look at our Polynesian voyage on this video made by Rodolphe Holler.