Mexico – Operation Swimway in Cabo Pulmo and Revillagigedo

Mexico – Operation Swimway in Cabo Pulmo and Revillagigedo

The Revillagigedo archipelago was a blessing in disguise for Seahawk. The visit, courtesy of a mechanical problem, landed the yacht in Ensenada until well beyond the time when a safe, typhoon-free crossing to the South Pacific would be possible. While not part of the yacht’s original itinerary, a remarkable trip with outstanding diving and marine encounters was the result. Mostly, though, we are grateful for having the opportunity to collaborate with Pelagios Kakunja, a world-renowned marine conservation NGO, to better understand the migratory patterns of pelagic species including sharks. Sometimes good things happen when you go off course.

Pelagios Kakunja operates in Mexico studying the populations of sharks and mantas that inhabit its waters. Their goal is to provide research that helps implement conservation strategies for the different species of these territories, many of which are known for their rich biodiversity, but also under stress due to overfishing and other threatening anthropogenic practices. 

After a few days exploring the mesmerizing surroundings of La Paz, Baja California, we were joined by scientists James Ketchum (Co-Founder of Pelagios), Miguel Grau (Field Technician), and experienced fisherman Alejandro Romero. And so the expedition “Operation Swimway” began. The main objective was the installation of new acoustic receivers and BRUVS (Baited Remote Underwater Video System) in strategic areas, the maintenance of legacy receivers, and the tagging of additional sharks, whose fastened transmitters will provide data on behavior and migration patterns. 

The technology used by Pelagios has been a popular tool among experts studying the movements of migratory marine animals. In the case of Pelagios’s work, tagged sharks in the proximity of the receivers send signals that identify the individual animal and its time of encounter, along with several other parameters.

The data on this acoustical sensors is then accessed by retrieving the receivers from the strategically fixed locations where they’ve been installed, a process that is done after 18 months or more. With enough receivers and transmitters installed and working together, a map of the species’ movements can be created, revealing migration patterns in and across the MPAs (Marine Protected Areas).

The information gathered on Operation Swimway intends to further the research on migration patterns; critical information that will benefit the creation of protected corridors between the MPAs of the Gulf of California and the Mexican Pacific.  

As for the BRUVS, they are useful for collecting data near important areas such as cleaning stations. These cameras gather information on shark behavior, such as feeding patterns and reproduction, thereby facilitating a more comprehensive picture of species’ life function and relationship to the environment.

In the days we spent cruising the waters of Cabo Pulmo and Revillagigedo, Pelagios managed to install 1 new receiver in Cabo Pulmo, renew a total of 7, and tag 4 sharks (two sharks with acoustic transmitters and two with satellite ones).

The owners, guests, and crew on board Seahawk also had the opportunity to attend educational presentations made by James and Miguel, who taught us about the research being conducted in the present and how the receivers installed work to gather valuable data. We also learned about the different species of marine life encountered in the areas visited and their conservation status.

Our experience exploring the underwater world of the Sea of Cortez and the Mexican Pacific is a highlight on Seahawk’s journey. From bull sharks in Cabo Pulmo to schools of scalloped hammerheads in the islands of Revillagigedo, along with the many encounters with the oceanic manta rays, magnificent gentle giants with wing spans of up to 25 feet, we are in awe of what the marine world holds.

Sadly, though, evidence points to the decline of sharks and reef fish in the past 20 years around most of the areas we visited. Industrial and unregulated fishing is a concern and a constant threat for many of these species. Pelagic fish migrating long distances, away from the protected areas for mating or feeding, are a special worry.

There is cause for optimism, however. Increasingly, there are inspiring stories that suggest positive change is in the wind. Oftentimes, the local communities negatively affected a declining environment successfully advocate for change. Cabo Pulmo National Park, 50NM south of La Paz, is an MPA with thriving marine life. But it wasn’t long ago that the region’s coral reefs and aquatic life were on the brink of collapsing, due in majority to overfishing and pollution. As studies started to be conducted on the area and locals became aware of the damage, the community came together in an effort to make Cabo Pulmo a protected area. Today, the town has a sustainable business model based on ecotourism and enjoys a healthy underwater world that keeps on giving income; marine animals, such as the resident group of bull sharks that inhabit the region, are more valuable alive than dead. 

Seahawk’s expedition in Mexico represents an important milestone. It reflects an aspiration to actively contribute to reverse damage to the environment by leveraging science, education, and technology in concert with the local experts best equipped to guide the effort. We hope Seahawk’s participation in “Operation Swimway” with YachtAid Global and Pelagios Kakunja helps protect bigger areas and create more MPAs, while serving to push conservation efforts even further. At the very least, all those involved come away knowing that a world without sharks is a poorer world and one that is likely unsustainable.

Mexico – Ensenada

Mexico – Ensenada

It was early in the morning when we arrived in Ensenada from the Galapagos islands. As we were approaching the dock, the thick fog on the bay made it impossible to see further than a few meters in front of the boat. The sounds of fishing boats honking and seals barking were all we could hear. But it was only once we were tied up on the dock that we noticed a mariachi band playing in the background, and so we knew that we were in Mexico.

Ensenada was never a part of Seahawk’s 7-year itinerary. After cruising Galapagos, the idea was to cross the Pacific and head to French Polynesia, the first stop on our South Pacific leg. But a last-minute issue made us change our plans.

The said issue came from the hydraulic system; during our previous trip in the Galapagos the keel actuator return hose broke, flooding important components of the vessel with seawater. 

This breakage required us to remove the hydraulic ram that raises and lowers the 60-ton keel. It is surprisingly difficult to haul a large yacht out of the water on the west coast of the Americas, especially a large sailing yacht; removing the keel hydraulics requires the boat to be lifted higher than normal with access from below. There were also visa considerations with a number of our crew being South African nationals, and US visas were still unavailable due to embassy closures still in effect from the Covid-19 pandemic. This ruled out the USA and hence San Diego.

Gran Peninsula, the shipyard in Ensenada, northern Baja California, turned out to be the only yard in the region that could do the job. The yard used to be a government-owned facility for building big fishing boats. Presently, it is a private company, still working with fishing boats but wanting to make a name for itself in the yachting industry.

Tomás Fernandez, the shipyard manager, was very cooperative and felt that they could devise a way to cradle Seahawk at their facility. On arrival, everything was ready, and the synchro lift was prepared for us the next day, a process that went extremely smoothly. 

 As captain Steve points out;

 I will not forget the next day when I came down from the boat to find Tomas with his head inside our keel box… I greeted him with the usual “Good morning, How’s everything, OK?” questions… his answer: “No… It’s huge!!” remarking at the size of our keel hydraulic ram, which is hard to visualize until you see it! But his team embraced the challenge and made the necessary repairs (it is always tricky to remove these)

Seahawk remained in Ensenada for 3 months. What was initially thought to be an annoyance, turned out to be a great discovery.

The months spent in the shipyard were an opportunity to explore a city that wouldn’t ideally be the first choice for many visitors going to Mexico. But Ensenada has a lot to offer; the Guadalupe Valley, a wine region with exquisite wines, the vivid nightlife of the city, and the delicious Mexican food gave everyone a real taste of the country. 

Tomás not only made sure that Seahawk’s issues were being addressed, but he also served as an excellent host introducing owners, guests, and crew to the best places, including the family’s local brewery where the delicious “Agua Mala” beer is produced.

The yard period was a success;  largely due to a team effort that had the crew contributing local knowledge specific to the boat, and the yard providing excellent project management and competent/effective technical services. Although a fair amount of improvisation and creativity was needed, all repairs were carried out professionally and enthusiastically. Gran Peninsula is a yard facility definitely worth considering for projects in the region.

As for the boat’s itinerary, we missed our weather window to cross the Pacific, which forced us to come up with a new plan. Instead Seahawk set sail for the Sea of Cortez and the Revillagigedo archipelago, delaying the Pacific crossing until the end of the year.

We departed the shipyard at the end of November, soon to realize that the new itinerary was a very lucky accident. Much of the next month was spent exploring the east and west coasts of the southern Baja California peninsula. The stunning coast around La Paz, the whale encounters as we sailed the Sea of Cortez, and the wonderful dive sites where we spotted bull sharks, hammerheads, giant manta rays, and dolphins leave us with enduring memories from our time visiting this very special place. The Gulf of California and the Mexican Pacific are magnificent jewels.

The lesson learned? That there is a plan, until the plan changes. And that changing plans, sometimes, leads to new paths of discovery and revelation.

Watch a video of Seahawk getting hauled in Ensenada, made by Righardt, videographer and dive instructor on board.